September 1, 2013
Sometimes I forget I even owned this car but thankfully the new owner Mark has kept in touch. The above photo of the Sunny is from the Hutt Valley Motorsport autocross held on the weekend. Apparently the Sunny went great and finally turned a few tires into smoke in the dry. I can’t say just how happy I am that this car went to someone who is taking care of it and is shredding some tires, it makes all that hard work worth it even if it’s not me driving! Mark placed 19/43 entrants, between a silvia and a skyline, nice one Mark.
I believe it is currently in the process of being certified for road use although it was already certified for the suspension and wheels. Will keep posting on it where possible.
Credit to simply vanilla for the photos, thanks!
February 7, 2013
So it runs and the bowls don’t leak! I’m having a little issue with the throttle returning to idle even after a new auxiliary spring was added. Soon I will pull the carbs down and service the main return spring assembly.
I plumbed in a new low pressure (2-3.5psi) fuel pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. There is also a splitter block in there to feed the excess back to the tank. Remember that these carbs are built to run on gravity feed and hence really dislike pressure into the bowls.
I make many apologies for the visual and auditory experience of this video:
1) Damn that engine bay is ugly! It’s a work in progress and the carbs have been set up for initial testing and tuning without to much thought towards cleanliness and presentation. This will come as soon as it runs nicely.
2) Canon 7D microphones and controllers suck and I wish I had a better way of getting crisp sound.
I drove it up and down the drive way a bit bit and it definitely needs a tune but it runs fairly nicely and sounds great!
February 2, 2013
Here’s a quick (and quite rude looking) photo of the FCRs on the current SR20. I don’t know how easy it is to do in the huge Silvia engine bay but note to self: never attempt to remove/fit stock plenum in the Datsun ever again, take the engine out. That was far too frustrating.
With the stock SR, I’ve fitted the fuel filter in the engine bay and everything fits nicely. Trying to squeeze in a fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter and a line splitter into the engine bay between the carbs and the brake master cylinder is a real hassle.
With some luck and some new fuel line, I might be able to try starting it tomorrow though I have my doubts. Fingers crossed.
February 2, 2013
Oh no, what have I done!
To be perfectly honest I was thinking about selling my truck this year and focusing on racing motorcycles… but something came up. Primal lust kicked in and here I am. They’re KEIHIN FCR41 flat slide carbs and they have me pining pretty fierce.
The unit has been sitting for years without use, after being in a S14 FL and then a rally escort project that was never finished. As I expected, the engine has a few issues, mainly surface rust on the cam lobes and I expect the bore too. It came with: a Cusco/Jasma exhaust manifold (which I will post about later), oil filter sandwich plate for an oil cooler, a Holley fuel pressure regulator and braided lines, a fuel line splitter, ecu, loom, and a modified coolant outlet.
I HAVE SOME 20V 4AGE ITBS ON A CUSTOM SR20 MANIFOLD FOR SALE IN NEW ZEALAND IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED
November 2, 2012
I can’t say I’ve ever been a fan of over fenders on small japanese classics but there are a few that do it so well that you can’t help but like them! If you’ve been following beeoneoneoh since the days where I would post b chassis photos every day, then you will remember Teruhisa Inoue’s KB110. If not, feast your eyes on the TECHNICAL FACTORY aggression brought to you by the one and only Park (Mr. HIGHTOPFADE). Follow this link right here to see more crispy photographs of these beautiful body lines.
I follow about 3 different TECHNICAL FACTORY yahoo blogs but none of them feature this car in depth. When I find it I’ll post it. Thanks Park!
September 17, 2012
Thanks Chris for the photos! This was such a fun day, I can’t wait for the next one. Between motorbikes I’ve been getting along with fixing the radiator. I have everything I need, I just need to modify the water outlet to fit the thermo switch and wire that in and we’re good to go.
See Freshly whipped for more of the day. Come on Chris, get some more video up!
July 26, 2012
Lowering a 1200 a lot and keeping the stock length castor arms is like a rough night out with your mates on the booze. You have fun and everything is going great but it gets to a point and you bail/miss judge the fence jump/walk into something you shouldn’t and now you can’t self centre when you’re walking. The problem I found in the past when drifting my truck is that the front edge of the wheel sits really close to the front edge of the wheel arch so instead of just shortening the castor arms to solve my loss of castor, I’m left with the options of either cutting the gaurds and loosing the smooth factor curve or running skinnier wheels (which wasn’t about to happen).
Instead of either of those options I’ve re-drilled the holes in the top of the strut tower by 30 degrees and effectively shifted the top of the shock towards the firewall by about 20mm. I’ve also filed out the camber plates a bit more to gain back the camber you loose when rotating the camber plate. Using our pal Pythagoras’ theorem, I can estimate an increase of about 2 degrees of castor. With other variables no doubt having an impact on the result – more mass up front, stiffer front springs and a wet track – it’s helped a lot, well obviously, but enough for me to notice a pick up in the amount the steering will self centre and rotate the wheels when switching. A pleasant change from normally having to fight the steering wheel into each switch. I definitely recommend the aforementioned modification if shortening the castor arms is posing similar problems as what I face. My sunny truck isn’t very pretty (is mustard with rust proofing surrounding it ever pretty?) but it now drifts and drives a lot nicer!