THE SUNNY TRUCK IS UP FOR SALE

THE SUNNY TRUCK IS UP FOR SALE

Life has moved on for me and I can’t hold onto this any longer, time to pass this onto someone else to enjoy.
Below is the basic spec sheet. You will notice I haven’t given wheel size for the current set up. This is because I do not wish to sell with them. I have also recently jumped into an Keihin FCR41 carb setup for this car. As it is not 100% with getting the right amount of fuel to them, they will not come with it and I shall sell it with the factory EFI setup as a running, moving, sliding car.

I live on the North Shore of Auckland and you are welcome to come view if you are legitimately going to buy it.

Price: $8,000. I’m pretty firm on the price so don’t expect much movement.
I am not looking to swap it for anything either

Comment if you want to buy it, please no window shoppers

READ TO THE BOTTOM

1982 Datsun 1200 Truck
Ex lendich construction
Does a sweet drift and is the funnest car I’ve driven due to being so small

DRIVELINE:
S14 SR20DE w/ S14 gearbox
H165 diff
Shortened drive shaft
New tunnel and recessed firewall with exhaust tunnel in passenger side
Floor of cab and tunnel has been painted with POR15
2.5” exhaust with a single muffler
Braced cabin floor for the new gearbox mount

ENGINE:
Factory specs
Factory plenum and alloy inlet tube ending with a pod filter
Factory exhaust manifold
S14 alloy radiator
Two electric fans
Silvia in tank fuel pump fitted to factory B120 tank with baffles fitted

SUSPENSION:
KB110 struts and brakes
Brake master cylinder mounted under dash w/ braided clutch line
Struts converted to adjustable spring platform with shortened pulsar shocks and milled out cusco S13 camber plates
Rear has short and stiff shocks
Reset rear leaves with 1 1/2″ lowering block
Cut bump stops
Roll centre adjusters
Redrilled strut towers for more castor
Recently replaced lower ball joints and tie rods
Has been certified for 13×7 175/50r13 (not the size pictured) wheels and suspension

INTERIOR:
260z seats
Nardi steering wheel
New handbrake cable

EXTERIOR:
Genuine Datsun fender mirrors in factory location (looking a bit rough these days)
Lendich mustard construction yellow
Stainless steel monsoon window guards

OVERALL CONDITION:
Let me start this by saying that lendich construction COVERED this thing in rust proofing. That is not to say it doesn’t have rust but that the rust proofing is there. There is some rust though which I recommend having removed if longevity is the aim. There is a spot in the passenger side roof gutter, a spot in the rear quarter panel in the seam and some in the front scuttle panel. There is also surface rust in the tray. Overall it’s not the end of the world but it was never meant to be a show piece. It is crazy fun to drive and driving it is the main purpose.

Sorry I thought I had a photo of the engine bay complete, it looks mostly similar to the following:

SR20DE For sale

So I have some SR parts to sell and they just so happen to piece together to form a really attractive looking package.

As posted HERE, I’m selling some Silver Top 20V 4AGE ITBS on a custom alloy manifold for the SR20DE. I also have some CUSCO exhaust headers and a complete SR20DE for sale. Right now I want to sell it all as it is because I don’t want any of it hanging around but I may be open to parting it out in the future. Get at me for more information, no time to list it all out right now.

christopher@beeoneoneoh.com for more information on the setup. It will be going on trademe soonish

FCR SR Video 1

So it runs and the bowls don’t leak! I’m having a little issue with the throttle returning to idle even after a new auxiliary spring was added. Soon I will pull the carbs down and service the main return spring assembly.

I plumbed in a new low pressure (2-3.5psi) fuel pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. There is also a splitter block in there to feed the excess back to the tank. Remember that these carbs are built to run on gravity feed and hence really dislike pressure into the bowls.

I make many apologies for the visual and auditory experience of this video:
1) Damn that engine bay is ugly! It’s a work in progress and the carbs have been set up for initial testing and tuning without to much thought towards cleanliness and presentation. This will come as soon as it runs nicely.
2) Canon 7D microphones and controllers suck and I wish I had a better way of getting crisp sound.

I drove it up and down the drive way a bit bit and it definitely needs a tune but it runs fairly nicely and sounds great!

SR20 ITBS FOR SALE

Here are the SR20 quad throttle bodies that I have for sale as photographed by Keisuke.

I purchased these from Japan for use on my Sunny truck but have since gone to FCR carbs as seen below

What you get:
AE101 20V 4AGE throttle bodies
Factory linkages and throttle cam
Custom polished alloy SR20 manifold which has built in water outlets
New fittings for each inlet tube
Polished inlet trumpets

If more images are needed I can supply at request.
Contact me here by leaving a message, please no window shoppers
I’m after NZ$650 for the above and I am happy to post internationally for those with a strong FX rate

FCR41 DUMMY FIT

Here’s a quick (and quite rude looking) photo of the FCRs on the current SR20. I don’t know how easy it is to do in the huge Silvia engine bay but note to self: never attempt to remove/fit stock plenum in the Datsun ever again, take the engine out. That was far too frustrating.

With the stock SR, I’ve fitted the fuel filter in the engine bay and everything fits nicely. Trying to squeeze in a fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter and a line splitter into the engine bay between the carbs and the brake master cylinder is a real hassle.

With some luck and some new fuel line, I might be able to try starting it tomorrow though I have my doubts. Fingers crossed.

FCR41 SUNNY TRUCK

Oh no, what have I done!

To be perfectly honest I was thinking about selling my truck this year and focusing on racing motorcycles… but something came up. Primal lust kicked in and here I am. They’re KEIHIN FCR41 flat slide carbs and they have me pining pretty fierce.

The unit has been sitting for years without use, after being in a S14 FL and then a rally escort project that was never finished. As I expected, the engine has a few issues, mainly surface rust on the cam lobes and I expect the bore too. It came with: a Cusco/Jasma exhaust manifold (which I will post about later), oil filter sandwich plate for an oil cooler, a Holley fuel pressure regulator and braided lines, a fuel line splitter, ecu, loom, and a modified coolant outlet.

I HAVE SOME 20V 4AGE ITBS ON A CUSTOM SR20 MANIFOLD FOR SALE IN NEW ZEALAND IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED

IT HOWLS

I’ve become lazy at updating beeoneoneoh because after following a few incredibly well documented and fast moving builds, I hardly feel motivated to do so. Well I have some news at the least so here’s where I am:

The last post I did on the 120 I was driving it up and down the driveway but it was lacking a few crucial things which I’ve now resolved.
– Alternator now charges the battery
– Swaybar is now installed with new bolts/nuts and I’ve cleaned up the links. I took out the thicker 120Y bar because I thought it wasn’t helping with understeer with the A15 in there. I may put it back but the factory one is fine for now. Note, when you properly lower a B110/B120 the swaybar rotates and touches the front of the sump. I made shortened linkages to fix this but with the SR sitting nicely into the firewall, I no longer need them. Factory items work perfect.
– I went around the engine bay and tightened a bunch of things which I had left finger tight as it was all being taken off so frequently. This definitely fixed a few issues.
– I went through the wiring with a diagram and deleted some unnecessary items and connected everything properly. I still need to figure out a few things but I did get the use of many items back which helps when you’re trying to test drive around the hood at night.

This week I drove it around the block with unsatisfactory results but it drove non the less. I figured that having fuel in the tank (that wasn’t stale) was a good place to start. I drove it again tonight after doing the above with very good results. Clean power delivery, and a smooth induction howl through the valley. I’m stoked, over the moon in fact. Time to get serious about knocking this bastard out so I can drive it without the fear of loosing my license.

Here’s an old photo for nostalgia’s sake:

ON THE GROUND FOR A SECOND

Before you get too excited, let me just say there’s still a long list of small bullshit things to do on this thing before I can properly drive it. It does however have suspension with heavier springs up front, functioning brakes and a handbrake, radiator mounts (it has cardboard protecting the fins so I don’t leave it on the car outside), a clutch, POR15’d crossmember, new ball joints and suspension bolts, rust and a dented body haha. After fitting the suspension, bleeding the brakes and riveting on the radiator support panel I thought what the hell, time to put it on the ground for some inspiration. My wallet is cowering at the thought of cutting rust, paint and certification so I can drive it on the road. Time to start saving!

Clutch & Throttle

Cough… yeah, I still own this thing. I don’t post much about it because anything I seem to be doing to it isn’t that amazing or blog worthy but here’s an update. Handbrake is mounted, has had a new and longer cable made and works like butter. I had a new throttle cable made with the original B120 firewall mount on the end and that’s also a goer excluding it still needing two washers on the mounting face. A nice new braided clutch line pokes through the firewall and banjos onto the under dash master cylinder. The remote reservoir is mounted in the engine bay and awaits a right angle fitting for the master to complete the system. I ditched the small alloy radiator I had set up for a larger S14 item and have cut up the inlet/outlets to fit the squished arrangement. I’m waiting on a BLACK (why do they even make blue) silicone elbow join so I can build the inlet between the radiator. This allows me to work the radiator inlet around the intake (which passes over to the passenger side) and finalise it’s position.

After the inlet and radiator is sorted and the suspension is back in I may even be able to take her for a maiden drive. I started it up again and made a ruckus the other day for some oral motivation and it has pushed me along quite nicely. I just signed onto a full time graduate job starting in a week so the drive to do as much as I can before work is currently high; whilst knowing funds are on the way is also reassuring that this will get finished. Last two thoughts: I miss driving a Datsun; and driving it to work in a suit is going to be interesting.

EDIT: So I remade the reservoir mount today with a longer piece running along the firewall to cover the hole where the clutch cable used to exit. I also cut some washers to fit the accelerator cable mount which finishes that. Notes: 7/16″ banjo bolts and fittings are impossible, I recommend against

Locost – Front arms

Man, things have been fairly slow over the past months in terms of cars but with more light hours due to daylight savings and less uni hours due to me finishing forever, things are starting to tick over again. The above picture is to show off the sterling effort my old man has been putting into the front a-arms for the Locost we are building. It doesn’t look like much in the photo but the time taken to cut, notch and ream out the pipe, cut and shape the braces and make that jig is much more than you’d imagine; especially when there are two sides. The differential and 5 link arms are almost done too with all the brackets welded ready for paint. The parts are also there to rebuild the escort diff that will go in. Dad bought a TIG recently too so learning to use that has been interesting although I’m the first to admit that I need to put in a lot more hours before I can weld properly with it.

My truck on the other hand has just received the last of the POR15 on the floor pan and tunnel so I can finally chuck the SR20DE back in (tecktill is the worst thing that ever happened to me). Nick did 90% of the wiring a while back so I can finally see if it runs! Will keep you posted but there is still much work to be done between actually enjoying my life outside of uni and trying to earn money to fund the rest of the build.