TERU’S KB110

[vimeo https://vimeo.com/64874022 w=890]

 

THE SUNNY TRUCK IS UP FOR SALE

THE SUNNY TRUCK IS UP FOR SALE

Life has moved on for me and I can’t hold onto this any longer, time to pass this onto someone else to enjoy.
Below is the basic spec sheet. You will notice I haven’t given wheel size for the current set up. This is because I do not wish to sell with them. I have also recently jumped into an Keihin FCR41 carb setup for this car. As it is not 100% with getting the right amount of fuel to them, they will not come with it and I shall sell it with the factory EFI setup as a running, moving, sliding car.

I live on the North Shore of Auckland and you are welcome to come view if you are legitimately going to buy it.

Price: $8,000. I’m pretty firm on the price so don’t expect much movement.
I am not looking to swap it for anything either

Comment if you want to buy it, please no window shoppers

READ TO THE BOTTOM

1982 Datsun 1200 Truck
Ex lendich construction
Does a sweet drift and is the funnest car I’ve driven due to being so small

DRIVELINE:
S14 SR20DE w/ S14 gearbox
H165 diff
Shortened drive shaft
New tunnel and recessed firewall with exhaust tunnel in passenger side
Floor of cab and tunnel has been painted with POR15
2.5” exhaust with a single muffler
Braced cabin floor for the new gearbox mount

ENGINE:
Factory specs
Factory plenum and alloy inlet tube ending with a pod filter
Factory exhaust manifold
S14 alloy radiator
Two electric fans
Silvia in tank fuel pump fitted to factory B120 tank with baffles fitted

SUSPENSION:
KB110 struts and brakes
Brake master cylinder mounted under dash w/ braided clutch line
Struts converted to adjustable spring platform with shortened pulsar shocks and milled out cusco S13 camber plates
Rear has short and stiff shocks
Reset rear leaves with 1 1/2″ lowering block
Cut bump stops
Roll centre adjusters
Redrilled strut towers for more castor
Recently replaced lower ball joints and tie rods
Has been certified for 13×7 175/50r13 (not the size pictured) wheels and suspension

INTERIOR:
260z seats
Nardi steering wheel
New handbrake cable

EXTERIOR:
Genuine Datsun fender mirrors in factory location (looking a bit rough these days)
Lendich mustard construction yellow
Stainless steel monsoon window guards

OVERALL CONDITION:
Let me start this by saying that lendich construction COVERED this thing in rust proofing. That is not to say it doesn’t have rust but that the rust proofing is there. There is some rust though which I recommend having removed if longevity is the aim. There is a spot in the passenger side roof gutter, a spot in the rear quarter panel in the seam and some in the front scuttle panel. There is also surface rust in the tray. Overall it’s not the end of the world but it was never meant to be a show piece. It is crazy fun to drive and driving it is the main purpose.

Sorry I thought I had a photo of the engine bay complete, it looks mostly similar to the following:

FCR41 DUMMY FIT

Here’s a quick (and quite rude looking) photo of the FCRs on the current SR20. I don’t know how easy it is to do in the huge Silvia engine bay but note to self: never attempt to remove/fit stock plenum in the Datsun ever again, take the engine out. That was far too frustrating.

With the stock SR, I’ve fitted the fuel filter in the engine bay and everything fits nicely. Trying to squeeze in a fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter and a line splitter into the engine bay between the carbs and the brake master cylinder is a real hassle.

With some luck and some new fuel line, I might be able to try starting it tomorrow though I have my doubts. Fingers crossed.

FCR41 SUNNY TRUCK

Oh no, what have I done!

To be perfectly honest I was thinking about selling my truck this year and focusing on racing motorcycles… but something came up. Primal lust kicked in and here I am. They’re KEIHIN FCR41 flat slide carbs and they have me pining pretty fierce.

The unit has been sitting for years without use, after being in a S14 FL and then a rally escort project that was never finished. As I expected, the engine has a few issues, mainly surface rust on the cam lobes and I expect the bore too. It came with: a Cusco/Jasma exhaust manifold (which I will post about later), oil filter sandwich plate for an oil cooler, a Holley fuel pressure regulator and braided lines, a fuel line splitter, ecu, loom, and a modified coolant outlet.

I HAVE SOME 20V 4AGE ITBS ON A CUSTOM SR20 MANIFOLD FOR SALE IN NEW ZEALAND IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED

ドリフト GIF

SICHICS 110 W/ STEEL

I don’t endorse steel wheels over small alloy wheels but the sichics B110 is so damn clean I can’t disagree!

VIA: SICHICS MINKARA, hometown: Hiroshima

beeoneoneoh at meremere 2

Thanks Chris for the photos! This was such a fun day, I can’t wait for the next one. Between motorbikes I’ve been getting along with fixing the radiator. I have everything I need, I just need to modify the water outlet to fit the thermo switch and wire that in and we’re good to go.

See Freshly whipped for more of the day. Come on Chris, get some more video up!

IT HOWLS

I’ve become lazy at updating beeoneoneoh because after following a few incredibly well documented and fast moving builds, I hardly feel motivated to do so. Well I have some news at the least so here’s where I am:

The last post I did on the 120 I was driving it up and down the driveway but it was lacking a few crucial things which I’ve now resolved.
– Alternator now charges the battery
– Swaybar is now installed with new bolts/nuts and I’ve cleaned up the links. I took out the thicker 120Y bar because I thought it wasn’t helping with understeer with the A15 in there. I may put it back but the factory one is fine for now. Note, when you properly lower a B110/B120 the swaybar rotates and touches the front of the sump. I made shortened linkages to fix this but with the SR sitting nicely into the firewall, I no longer need them. Factory items work perfect.
– I went around the engine bay and tightened a bunch of things which I had left finger tight as it was all being taken off so frequently. This definitely fixed a few issues.
– I went through the wiring with a diagram and deleted some unnecessary items and connected everything properly. I still need to figure out a few things but I did get the use of many items back which helps when you’re trying to test drive around the hood at night.

This week I drove it around the block with unsatisfactory results but it drove non the less. I figured that having fuel in the tank (that wasn’t stale) was a good place to start. I drove it again tonight after doing the above with very good results. Clean power delivery, and a smooth induction howl through the valley. I’m stoked, over the moon in fact. Time to get serious about knocking this bastard out so I can drive it without the fear of loosing my license.

Here’s an old photo for nostalgia’s sake:

RIVERSIDE MASTER

This guy took one of the best wheels ever made and fit one of the coolest Japanese classic ‘small’ cars (although not a two door) around them. 200% filled with car envy.

VIA: SUNNY CHAN

Also see: 1 – 2 – 3

ON THE GROUND FOR A SECOND

Before you get too excited, let me just say there’s still a long list of small bullshit things to do on this thing before I can properly drive it. It does however have suspension with heavier springs up front, functioning brakes and a handbrake, radiator mounts (it has cardboard protecting the fins so I don’t leave it on the car outside), a clutch, POR15’d crossmember, new ball joints and suspension bolts, rust and a dented body haha. After fitting the suspension, bleeding the brakes and riveting on the radiator support panel I thought what the hell, time to put it on the ground for some inspiration. My wallet is cowering at the thought of cutting rust, paint and certification so I can drive it on the road. Time to start saving!