February 10, 2013
If you’re into Datsuns and you don’t already follow Rick Bones Datsun 1200, I suggest you do. Having fought hard in SS2000 for years with his incredible 205 flywheel hp A15, he’s swapped to a SR20DET and pursued GTRNZ. After a few rounds, he then got pushed into GT2 when ran times below the minimum allowed time bracket. As you can see in the video above, GT2 is a serious class with Sivias, Skylines, Porsche GT3s, BMW M5, camaros etc.
Unfortunately round 5 at Hampton Downs didn’t end to well for Rick. After reeling in the 3.6 litre Porsche GT3 that was up front, he tapped its ass out of the hairpin which only ended badly. I believe Rick has sorted the damage already which tells good things for round 6 at Manfield.
I’d like to note for those unfamiliar with the series, that the cars passing were from the class above, GT1. Also that Ricks SR20 (running a mere 8psi) is the smallest capacity engine of the field. The largest being a 6.2 litre corvette. Way to go Rick, I can’t wait to see this in the flesh and I hope the rest of the season goes well for you.
February 7, 2013
So it runs and the bowls don’t leak! I’m having a little issue with the throttle returning to idle even after a new auxiliary spring was added. Soon I will pull the carbs down and service the main return spring assembly.
I plumbed in a new low pressure (2-3.5psi) fuel pump and a Holley fuel pressure regulator. There is also a splitter block in there to feed the excess back to the tank. Remember that these carbs are built to run on gravity feed and hence really dislike pressure into the bowls.
I make many apologies for the visual and auditory experience of this video:
1) Damn that engine bay is ugly! It’s a work in progress and the carbs have been set up for initial testing and tuning without to much thought towards cleanliness and presentation. This will come as soon as it runs nicely.
2) Canon 7D microphones and controllers suck and I wish I had a better way of getting crisp sound.
I drove it up and down the drive way a bit bit and it definitely needs a tune but it runs fairly nicely and sounds great!
February 2, 2013
Here’s a quick (and quite rude looking) photo of the FCRs on the current SR20. I don’t know how easy it is to do in the huge Silvia engine bay but note to self: never attempt to remove/fit stock plenum in the Datsun ever again, take the engine out. That was far too frustrating.
With the stock SR, I’ve fitted the fuel filter in the engine bay and everything fits nicely. Trying to squeeze in a fuel pressure regulator, the fuel filter and a line splitter into the engine bay between the carbs and the brake master cylinder is a real hassle.
With some luck and some new fuel line, I might be able to try starting it tomorrow though I have my doubts. Fingers crossed.
July 26, 2012
Lowering a 1200 a lot and keeping the stock length castor arms is like a rough night out with your mates on the booze. You have fun and everything is going great but it gets to a point and you bail/miss judge the fence jump/walk into something you shouldn’t and now you can’t self centre when you’re walking. The problem I found in the past when drifting my truck is that the front edge of the wheel sits really close to the front edge of the wheel arch so instead of just shortening the castor arms to solve my loss of castor, I’m left with the options of either cutting the gaurds and loosing the smooth factor curve or running skinnier wheels (which wasn’t about to happen).
Instead of either of those options I’ve re-drilled the holes in the top of the strut tower by 30 degrees and effectively shifted the top of the shock towards the firewall by about 20mm. I’ve also filed out the camber plates a bit more to gain back the camber you loose when rotating the camber plate. Using our pal Pythagoras’ theorem, I can estimate an increase of about 2 degrees of castor. With other variables no doubt having an impact on the result – more mass up front, stiffer front springs and a wet track – it’s helped a lot, well obviously, but enough for me to notice a pick up in the amount the steering will self centre and rotate the wheels when switching. A pleasant change from normally having to fight the steering wheel into each switch. I definitely recommend the aforementioned modification if shortening the castor arms is posing similar problems as what I face. My sunny truck isn’t very pretty (is mustard with rust proofing surrounding it ever pretty?) but it now drifts and drives a lot nicer!
July 23, 2012
I’ll do a quick run down on how the drift day went soon but here’s a prelimary photo from autofocused.co.nz, thanks! And yes, it was wet. That’s Keisuke in the passenger seat, many laughs were had.
June 10, 2012
So, it drives. Stoked. Plenty more to do still before I can really drive her
In the afternoon I started to test fit the 17″ VT250 alloy wheel to my bucket racer. The hub needs a bit machined off the end and I need to make some new spacers to center it but otherwise fairly straight forward. The GL145 came from factory with 18″ wire wheels as pictured in the first photos. 18’s are tough to get any good tires in so it’s just easier to swap to 17″ wheels. So far the bike owes me $210, not bad I thought.
June 4, 2012
Before you get too excited, let me just say there’s still a long list of small bullshit things to do on this thing before I can properly drive it. It does however have suspension with heavier springs up front, functioning brakes and a handbrake, radiator mounts (it has cardboard protecting the fins so I don’t leave it on the car outside), a clutch, POR15’d crossmember, new ball joints and suspension bolts, rust and a dented body haha. After fitting the suspension, bleeding the brakes and riveting on the radiator support panel I thought what the hell, time to put it on the ground for some inspiration. My wallet is cowering at the thought of cutting rust, paint and certification so I can drive it on the road. Time to start saving!